Ramen’s recently been on my radar. While in Vancouver, I wrote about Maruhachi Ra-men for Cultural Daily, which specializes in tori-paitan, a white and creamy chicken soup, a close cousin to tonkotsu, created from pork bones and originating in Kyushu, Japan.

Los Angeles has an impressive line-up of ramen shops, including HiroNori Craft Ramen in Pasadena, downtown’s Ramen Hood, Iki Ramen in Koreatown, and Rakkan in Little Tokyo. So my tastebuds perked upon hearing the news that Kyuramen was opening a shop in Arcadia.

Could Kyuramen rival Alhambra’s famed Foo Foo Tei, which closed in 2017?

I took a trip to Arcadia with a friend to find out. Kyuramen launched its first shop in Flushing, Queens, in 2019. The restaurant quickly gained a devoted following for its meticulous approach to broth-making and noodle craft. About that broth: when asked, our server said it’s simmered for 18 hours.

The name “Kyuramen” (九湯らーめん) translates roughly to “nine soup ramen,” referencing the restaurant’s  nine signature ramen styles that showcase regional influences from across Japan. The chain has 40 outlets and has ambitions to reach 200 locations.

Kyuramen’s distinctive aesthetic is in full force at the Arcadia location—a blend of traditional Japanese elements with modern industrial touches tossed in. The look is spread over 3,636 square feet.

First up upon entry: warm wooden accents contrasted against sleek concrete floors and exposed ductwork. Look up and you’ll spot a honeycomb drop sectional ceiling. That’s mimicked by bee-hive like booths set against one wall, the opposite side harboring booths curtained with noren. There’s also a Japanese wish tree centerpiece where patrons can write a wish on a small wood plaque and hang it from the spreading branches.

The Tasting Menu Experience

We sampled the tasting menu, a good start before branching out (in subsequent visits) to the full menu. I chose Ramen #1, Tokyo Tonkotsu Shouyu Ramen, Kyuramen’s signature dish. The menu declared that “500K bowls” had been served.

The ramen arrived in an angled deep bowl with a choice of white or black garlic. I chose the latter for the boost of flavor. Ingredients: chashu pork, half-marinated egg, corn, bamboo shoots, wakame, scallion and nori. I spooned up some broth; it was excellent. Rich and savory with a flavor depth brought out by those 18 hours of simmering.

My friend chose Ramen #6, Kyushu Tonkotsu Ramen. It had similar ingredients, but arrived with a spicy kick. He loved it.

You can read about Kyuramen’s multi-step process it employs when creating ramen here.

Next up: The Pork Tonkatsu Omurice Combo. The dish arrives as a pillowy omelet draped over fried rice, topped with a fried pork cutlet that delivers satisfying crunch without greasiness. Diners can choose between a curry sauce or demi-glace to finish the dish—we opted for the curry sauce, which provided a rich and deep counterpoint to the savory elements.

The fried rice itself stood out. It was studded with finely diced vegetables and lightly seasoned.  Beef and pork are incorporated into the mix, making it a hearty option for meat lovers.

Yinyang Bowl: A Study in Contrasts

The centerpiece of the tasting menu is  the Yinyang Bowl, a visually striking creation that lives up to its “double the flavor” promise. It  combines tonkotsu shoyu and miso ramen in a single bowl, divided down the middle to create a striking dual-colored presentation. The tonkotsu side delivers rich, velvety pork broth with umami, while the miso half offers earthy, complex flavors with a slight sweetness.

We began the meal with Popcorn Chicken—bite-sized pieces of chicken encased in a crisp coating that gives way with each bite, revealing juicy meat. The seasoning blend incorporates traditional Japanese spices with a hint of pepper heat. Fresh basil leaves are fried alongside the chicken.

As a starter, we also had the Yakitori Platter, mini skewers of pork, chicken, scallops, beef, and vegetables. It was grilled just right, even the scallops, which can be hard to pull off.

Matcha and Jelly for Dessert

The tasting menu concludes with two distinctly Japanese sweets: Cherry Blossom Jelly and Matcha Tiramisu. The mound of Cherry Blossom Jelly looked especially inviting, so I spooned into that first. I caught the floral notes amid the barely sweet jelly. It was a bit like eating air, which was a revelation, and a nice finisher to the heavier mains in the meal.

The Matcha Tiramisu’s aim is to marry the Italian technique with Japanese flavors. It arrived in a square wooden box, a layer of matcha dusting on top with matcha-infused cream further down between the cake layers. I had no complaints.

My friend also wanted to try the Matcha Pudding with Red Bean—served with a little pitcher of fresh milk. We both dug in, but didn’t find it to be notable.

Kyuramen is adjacent to the beverage bar, TBaar. All of its drink selections can be ordered with a meal. We ordered the Thai Iced Tea and the Fresh Passion Fruit Tea, the latter arriving with ample chunks of fruit. We later ordered a lemonade. It had an excellent balance of tang and sweetness–it was our favorite.

Kyuramen, 7 Las Tunas Dr, Arcadia, CA 91007.