After a long climb, a friend and I reached one of Lisbon’s best observation points: Miradouro de S. Pedro de Alcântara. We looked out over Avenida da Liberdade, lights starting to flicker on. Also, a great view of Igreja da Graça (Grace Church), one of Lisbon’s oldest churches, built in the late 1200s.
We had been walking for half an hour, getting lost as one does in Lisbon, when we spotted the Gandaia Club up the street. It had a bohemian vibe, and it looked fun and intriguing, especially the rooftop hangout perched far above us.
A Speakeasy Ambiance
Inside, we discovered the Decadent Restaurant, well-named given the chill ambiance that reminded me of a speakeasy—one that select friends would know about. A bar and comfy lounge set with an oversized fireplace led to the eatery.
Entering the restaurant, which seats 40, we parted green velvet curtains to view rows of tables covered in white cloth, each with a taper candle. The floors were lined with rugs; a faded peach Venetian plaster covered the walls. A bar set with large flower arrangements was at the rear of the space. The bartender stood center back, shaking drinks and looking like she owned the place. There’s also a courtyard, mostly empty when we ate in early December, but of course popular in summertime.
We found the dishes to be at once earthy and intense with flavor. They’re mastered by chef David Vieira, who employs a grill, coal, and firewood. Vieira draws on the flavors of Verba, a village near Aveiro where he grew up, raised by his grandparents, the smell of smoke and fire all around.
Chef Vieira draws on previous experience at the Michelin-starred London restaurant Murano, Sofitel Vienna, and at Lisbon-based 100 Maneiras and Ceia. At Ceia, Vieira was tutored by Pedro Pena Bastos, who is part of the new generation of Portuguese chefs—in late 2025, he opened his own restaurant, Broto.
Portuguese Cuisine With a Twist
The cuisine is primarily Portuguese-infused and inspired by Asian and other seasonings: rice vinegar, hondashi, kombu algae, kombu dashi, and mirin.
We started with sourdough bread and smoked butter from the Azores, the chew and crisp of the bread enriched by the floral-woodsy butter. Next came the Algarve Shrimp Tartare and Nori served on a crispy chicken base. The shrimp were sweet, intensely briny, and complemented by the touch of umami from the nori.
A slow-roasted lamb arrived served with lemon balm, potato, and sourdough bread. The flavor was rich and gamey in the best sense, smoothed by a perfect sweetness. The lemon balm cut cleanly against the lamb fat. The main dish was served with a side of grilled asparagus—cooked perfectly with a slight snap, and paired with egg and huancaina sauce.
The server championed the Decadent Steak Sandwich—he grew more animated as he spoke—as the best sandwich we’d likely ever eat. It arrived looking substantial and was delicious, but not the standout described. I do give the server high marks for his superb table-side marketing performance. It was a show.
The meal was served with Favonius, Lisboa, an orange wine.
A Bold Riff on Quatro Leches
We wanted something light for dessert, so we chose the Cucumber and Meringue bathed in lime and vanilla granita—a watery freshness paired with a sharp citrus acidity and perhaps a hint of bitterness. Also: the Quatro Leches with pineapple and meringue, a bold riff on a classic. The pineapple was a smart choice, the bright flavor contrasting with the milk-soaked cake.
The meal was quite capable, and I appreciated the menu’s inventive flair—along with the servers who were having a great time, chatting up guests and buzzing around. They seemed like one fun, raucous family.
The Gandaia Club’s Hidden Rooftop
After dinner, we ascended winding stairs to the restaurant’s “Hidden Rooftop” with vistas of the city. A lounge was set with mismatched sofas, lamps, and decor, like a friend’s hangout who’s addicted to thrift store finds. For a better visual, check out the Gandaia Club’s Instagram account.
The drinks are inventive and plentiful, with names like “Naked in Lisbon,” “Peanut Butter Jelly,” and a “Fake News” mocktail. Somehow, wherever you go in the world, you can’t escape American politics.
The rooftop space was empty when we visited, but during special events and on weekends, there are full-on parties with a DJ. Also: yoga classes, coffee parties, and other activities.
The Lisboa City Card
While I encourage walking in Lisbon, you’ll no doubt need to take a tram, train, bus, or subway on occasion. Check out the Lisboa Card, which grants unlimited travel + entry to over 50 of the city’s best attractions and museums, among other benefits.
The Decadent Restaurant | Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara 81, Lisbon, Portugal. +351 962 109 787 | hello@gandaia-club.pt